Tagged: Featured

PENGURURAN MARKET

Every Wednesday and Saturday there’s a big market in the town of Pengururan on Lake Toba, Indonesia.  People come in from the neighboring towns to stock up on fish, meat, fish, veggies and fish.  I had to go check it out, so I got up the courage to drive a motorbike for the first time – on the LEFT side.  That’s a big deal for an American!  And I didn’t crash or anything, so I’m very proud of myself.  Anyway, this is it.

I liked how this woman had her fish laid out so neatly on banana leaves.

Chilis, tomatoes, garlic, green onions, cabbage, carrots…

Definitely the most gruesome thing I saw.

Baskets of these little dried fish were everywhere.

The market from the outside.

Apparently people love getting their pictures taken with foreigners!

Told you there were a lot of fish!

Chilis and potatoes.

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AN INDONESIAN WEDDING

The hospitality I’ve encountered in Sumatra is truly blowing me away.  This morning I was invited to a wedding, and it was INCREDIBLE.

Well, let me start from the beginning.  I had planned to go on this hike through a canyon, and I was trying to find my way to the trailhead.  And I was lost.  Like the time when I tried to find that tea plantation in Malaysia and ended up walking two hours through the jungle.  In other words, like ALWAYS.  The owner of my guesthouse even said that in all his many years here, I am the only person who has ever gotten lost – not even on the hike – but on the WAY to the hike.

But it was all worth it, because when I stopped in a coffee shop to ask for directions, one of the old guys hanging out there invited me to sit down for tea, and then to his friend’s daughter’s wedding!  So I scrapped the hike idea and dashed home to take a shower.

Here’s what a wedding looks like in western Sumatra:

The bride and groom.  Don’t they look like royalty?

I got a photo with the wedding party :)

The groom.

This is the band.

This is a ceremony where people dance on a pile of broken plates – this is supposed to bring prosperity and happiness to the couple.

See?

Then this performer danced on the broken plates with FLAMING BATONS!

AND THEN HE PUT THE FIRE OUT WITH HIS MOUTH!!

I feel ya.

This is a Padang-style feast.  You get bowls of rice and then help yourself to the other dishes – curries, meats with delicious sauces, veggies, etc, etc.  And eat it with your hands.  Which I’m always down for.

Yum.

The happy couple :)  I still can’t get over how gorgeous they were!

Guests coming by to say congratulations

Have you been to a wedding in a foreign country?  What was it like? 
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TRAVELER’S LUCK.

Occasionally I kick myself for not being better prepared.

This usually happens when, for example, I’m sprinting madly through a parking lot, dragging my flipped-over rolling suitcase behind me as I realize that the day’s last bus to wherever I want to go is pulling out of the station.  Through the window I can usually see other backpackers sitting smugly in their pre-assigned seats and tearing open packets of snacks.  I’ll probably have forgotten to buy snacks, so if I manage to make it on, I’ll jealously watch them eat out of the corner of my eye.

Or when I realize that the forty-five minutes of wandering I’ve just done could have been avoided by simply loading a map of the area on my iPod.

When this happens, I’ll resolve to Get Prepared.  “Sort your life out,” I’ll tell myself.  “Next time I’m going to load the map, buy food, and look up the bus timetable.  No more assuming things will go exactly as I want them to.”

But then, just often enough, the hands of fate swoop in and somehow make the best of things, and sometimes it’s a good story.  And the lesson remains unlearned.

One time in Seattle, one of my friends invited me to meet up with her coworkers for a drink.  A long taxi ride later, I stood before the leather-clad bouncer at the door of the bar, rummaging through my purse and pockets.  He stared me down, arms crossed, as I realized that….my ID wasn’t there.  I looked up at the bouncer.  “Please let me in.  I’m 25.  I just forgot my ID in my other purse, that’s all.  I swear!”

It was then that I realized the bar in question was a gay bar, and my tactics were not going to work on this particular bouncer.  He looked at me skeptically, raised eyebrows suggesting irritation at my attempt.

“I don’t care how old you really are, you’re not getting in here.  Not without an ID.  Now, if you’ll excuse me, there’s a line behind you.”

I couldn’t decide what to do.  Being cheap, I was unwilling to take a taxi home and back to get my ID, but I also didn’t want to give up.  My friend and I agreed that she would go meet her coworkers and I would walk around for half an hour, after which we’d all meet up and go somewhere nearer to my house (or someplace where I could try my luck sweet-talking a different bouncer).  I wandered aimlessly down the street, watching people getting into bars right and left.  So easily.  Had I really made it to the age of twenty-five without learning to double-check my purse before going out for the night?  Thinking about this, I stood on the corner, taking a picture of some sign I liked on a telephone pole, when a girl and her friends came up to me.

“Oh my god.  Baby girl.  I love you!”

I was confused.  I’d never seen her before in my life.  “Excuse me?”

“Do you know where the block party is?”

“Um, no.  No idea,” I said.

“Wow, sorry,” she replied.  “I didn’t mean to offend you or anything.  I was just asking.”

“Haha, no, I’m not offended,” I told her.  “I don’t know where I’m going.  I’m just waiting for some friends to finish their drinks because I forgot my ID and I’m stuck out here.”

“Oh, you need an ID?  I have an extra.  You can totally have it.  Here you go!”  she said, pulling out her wallet and handing me a card.  It was expired, and from Arizona.  We didn’t look very much alike, and she was a good six inches shorter than me, but still.

I couldn’t believe my luck.  “Really?”

“Definitely!  Have a good night,” she said as she turned and walked the other way with her friends.

Back at the bar, my bouncer nemesis glowered at me as I stood in the doorway, but I triumphantly ignored him, gesturing to my friends to go somewhere else with me.  The ID miraculously worked at three different places, and at the end of the night, munching on a Seattle dog (it had cream cheese, onions and cilantro, and was served to me by a guy who spun the ketchup and mustard bottles like guns in a Western movie), I felt victorious.  Everything had turned out even better than I thought!

I was thinking about this the day I tried to visit the biggest tea plantation in the Cameron Highlands.  The plantation is a bus ride and a walk away from Tanah Rata, the town where I was staying.  I didn’t know where to get off the bus, or where to walk afterwards, for that matter, but I assumed I’d figure it out when I got there (famous last words).  I did see a couple of foreign girls I’d seen in my hostel who I had heard mention going there too.  We didn’t have any languages in common, and it had seemed like they wanted to keep to themselves, so I thought I’d follow them just until I knew where I was going.

They got off at a random path that led up a hill, so I got off there too.  I followed them for a little while, staying far back enough to not seem like a creeper. Suddenly, then. the road got a little confusing, and I stopped a couple of Malaysian ladies walking past me.  “Is this the right way to the tea plantation?”  I asked them.

“Oh, yes, yes,” they said, pointing up the big tall hill. “That way.”

I didn’t see the girls anymore but did see a sign with two arrows pointing in opposite directions.  One said BRINCHANG. The other said G. BRINCHANG.  What was the G?  I had no idea, but I’d come from Brinchang, so I decided to go the other way.  I followed the trail up a steep jungly path.  Sometime around when I was grabbing tree roots to pull myself over the thick mud, I realized that this was probably not the right way to the tea plantation.  But I’d come that far already, so I decided to just go for it.  It was beautiful, and took about 2 hours to hike.  And finally, I came to the end of the path!

And there was…a power station.  And that was it.  A road began at the edge of it, but I had no idea where it headed.  I followed it into the fog, not seeing anyone else.  Then I saw a sign saying BRINCHANG, 11 KM.  Eleven kilometers to get back to where I needed to go?  That would take hours!

I started kicking myself then, going through my series of life-sorting resolutions and swearing that the next time I would read the guidebook, get a map, and bring an extra water bottle.  Why had I taken a random 2-hour detour through the jungle?  Why had I assumed that was the right place to go?  Just as I was sure I’d wasted my only day in the Cameron Highlands, I came around a bend in the road and saw…a couple, a bit younger than my parents, sitting in picnic chairs and drinking wine.

What in the world?

“You’ve been jungle walking, haven’t you!”  they called out.

“Accidentally,” I called back.  “I sort of had a two-hour detour.”

“Ha!  Come have some wine with us,” they said, unfolding another chair and pulling an empty wine glass out of their cooler.

Well, I thought, that’s more like it!

I sat down with them.  As we chatted, they mentioned that they were about to drive to the tea plantation for some lunch, and did I want to join?

Absolutely.  As I shut the car door, the skies opened up and it started pouring rain.

They bought me a pot of tea and a slice of lemon cake.  Sitting on the balcony of the tea plantation’s restaurant and admiring the gorgeous view, I couldn’t believe that just half an hour earlier I’d been lost, sweaty and bracing myself to walk eleven kilometers home.

Afterwards, they dropped me off back at Brinchang, wishing me luck on the rest of my trip.

And that was it.  I’ll have to pay this one forward to some other backpacker one day.

Do you consider yourself lucky?  Do you plan everything, or take your chances and see where you end up?

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CORREFOC

Here are some photos of the Correfoc, which is one of the most incredible things I’ve ever seen in my life.

Correfoc means “fire run” and it’s a truly impressive pyrotechnic parade held at many Catalan celebrations.  A winged devil acts as MC, addressing the crowd in Catalan at the beginning of the night in a speech punctuated every so often with deep evil laughter.  When he finishes, a giant gate opens and through it come groups of other devils who run through the streets with spark-throwing pitchforks, showering the crowds of people on the sidewalks while giant papier-mache characters weave through the chaos and throw sparks of their own.  There are plenty of brave people who wrap themselves in layers and run around with the devils – but you have to be careful or else you’ll end up with holes burned in your clothes!

The whole thing is part of a festival called La Mercé, which happens every year in Barcelona to celebrate the Catholic holiday for Our Lady of Mercy.  I was lucky enough to see it a couple of years ago and haven’t shut up about it ever since!  This is why:

Would you run with the devils?

angkor wat (full size)

THE NEXT WHEREVER: ASIA 2012

I just bought a one-way ticket to Malaysia.  Eeeek!

After months and months of saving and planning and debating, I finally took the plunge and bought plane tickets.  It’s official – I’m off to Asia this fall!

The best part of an open-ended trip is seeing what happens along the way and not deciding too many things in advance.  It’s important to build in lots of flexibility for all the things I haven’t heard of yet, and I don’t want to kill the fun with a rigid itinerary.  I’ve got a rough idea though, so here are the plans as they stand now:

First Leg: Spain with the Madre

The trip will kick off with two weeks with my mom in Barcelona.  The reason for Spain (an admittedly impractical way to begin a trip to Asia) is La Mercé, a festival celebrating the last day of summer.  I got to go to this a long time ago, during my year abroad in college, and it was incredible.  As luck would have it, getting a one-way ticket to Spain and then one to Malaysia was only a little bit more expensive than a ticket straight from Denver (my starting place) to any Asian city.  So, bring it on!

img: IK’s World Trip

Second Leg: Solo in Asia

I fly straight from Spain to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.  Definitely on the Malaysia list are: Melaka, the Cameron Highlands, Penang, and I am soooo hoping to go to Borneo.

From there I’ll cross into southern Thailand and start heading up the coast(s).  I want to make it to Chiang Mai, in the north, by the end of November.

img: hahatango

From there I’ll go through Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia for the next few months.

img: victoriapeckham

Beyond that, I’m dying to go to Myanmar, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, the Phillippines, and back to India…we’ll see how long my money lasts.  When it inevitably runs out and I need to make more, I’ll head to New Zealand or Australia, get a working holiday visa, and work until I figure out where to go next.

img: eguidetravel